Spirited Away at Ginzan Onsen

by Gavin Pirie

Have you ever wanted to walk through the forest with Totoro? Or swim through the water with Ponyo?

Unfortunately, such adventures are only possible in the fantastic Ghibli movies. However, if you’re a Ghibli, fan like me, you’ll put that disappointment to one side and travel to Ginzan Onsen (銀山温泉). Why should you do that, you might ask? Because Ginzan Onsen is home to one of the bathhouses that inspired the magnificent bathhouse in Spirited Away.

Located in the mountains of Yamagata Prefecture, Ginzan was once a silver mining town, that just happened to be resting on another treasure, hot springs. Just like the Spirited Away character, Haku, who magically transforms into a dragon; Ginzan also underwent its own changes to become the beautiful onsen town it is today.

Lining the Ginzan river are some wonderful traditional ryokans (Japanese inns). If you’re lucky enough to have the time and money to stay here; like Chihiro, you may also find yourself struggling to remember your own name. But don’t worry, it won’t be because it was stolen by a witch. You’ll be far too relaxed in one of the many hot spring baths to remember why you even came to this magical location in the first place.

Ginzan Onsen is best experienced at a leisurely pace. Take a stroll along the river, and crisscross its many bridges, as you uncover the hidden treasures of this onsen town. I couldn’t resist the almost European allure of Crie – Cote de la Poste (look for the orange postbox). Go upstairs and enjoy an iced coffee with ice cream and sprinkles as you gaze across at the bathhouse from Spirited Away. Or cross the fading red-painted bridge to enjoy some soba at Takimikan (滝見館).

Oh, and just because you may not have been able to enjoy the hot springs of the many ryokans around the town, doesn’t mean you miss out entirely on some relaxation time. Why not dip your toes in the free foot spa and watch the world and the many fish in the river drift by?

The most popular time to visit Ginzan Onsen is during winter when the buildings and streets are caked in snow. But if you’re like me, and can’t fight your urge to consume all things, Ghibli. Then late spring and summer is a good time to visit too. Continue on the path past Takimikan and you will see a spectacular waterfall surrounded by lush greenery. If you’re curious about Ginzan’s pre-hot spring history, you may even stumble across parts of the town’s historic silver mine! Don’t worry, it’s perfectly safe to explore.

Ginzan Onsen has a little of everything for everyone. Old Japan, hot springs, delicious food, spectacular natural sights, and of course, just enough fantasy to satisfy any Ghibli cravings you might have. So go on and experience this magical place for the first time!

Access from Sendai

By car

From central Sendai to Ginzan, Onsen takes just under 2 hours by car.

By train and bus

From Sendai Station, take the JR Senzan Line to Kita-Yamagata Station. From there, catch the JR Yamagata Line service to Oishida Station. From there, buses leave to Ginzan Onsen every 60-90 minutes for the 35-minute bus ride to your destination. Combined with the train ride, it will take about 2 ½ hours to get to Ginzan Onsen from Sendai Station.